We had visited the dargah once during a heritage walk of the Nizamuddin Basti organized by the group Sair e Nizamuddin. I had heard about the Basant Panchami celebrations at that time. I finally made it yesterday to see what it was all about.
The story goes like this: Hazrat Nizamuddin was sad after he lost his nephew, who was like a son to him. One day Khusro saw some women decked up in yellow saris, holding mustard flowers, and singing songs. He asked them where they were going. They were going to the temple for Basant Panchami day. He asked if it will make their god happy. They said yes. This gave him an idea. Khusro, decked up in yellow sari and mustard flowers went to see Hazrat Nizamuddin and sang Basant songs to him. This brought a smile on the auliya’s face. Since then Basant is celebrated at the dargah with Khusro’s songs. You can read more about the story and history of Basant at Nizamuddin in this article on Scroll from 2016.
I had not seen this article or any other information about the schedule anywhere except a guided tour that was supposed to be there at 3. So I decided that must be the key time. I promptly reached at 3pm, picked up a place at the back of the seating area in front of the Dargah and waited for what seemed like forever. It was sunny and the dargah looked beautiful under the blue sky. Some people had tied yellow scarfs on their forehead. Some more were brought in. I got fidgety and decided to explore the complex a bit more. A lady beautifully dressed in yellow from head to toe was hurrying around. People were milling about. It was like an Indian wedding celebration. Many people doing many things around me but I didn’t know what actually was going on. Although, I must admit, people watching was the best. Everybody was decked up and excited. People were posing for selfies everywhere. Starting conversations with random strangers.
I got up from my seat when I could hear singing coming from the back entrance. People wearing yellow and holding Sarson ke phool were singing the famous songs – Sakal ban phool rahi sarson, Aaj basant manale suhagan, followed by one more that I hadn’t heard before. They entered the courtyard and sang the same songs again. Then everybody dispersed. A wide area was cleared off in front of the dargah. The kids holding Sarson ke phool, sat down at the back. It was time for evening prayers and everybody dispersed.
After the evening prayers, the groups of singers started again from the previous point in the courtyard behind the dargah. After singing for some time, they walked in procession the dargah at the place cleared out. It was a riot of yellow as the singing progressed and people threw marigold petals in the air.
Sakal ban phool rahi sarson
Umbva boray, tesu phulay
Koyal bolay daar daar
Aur gori karat singaar
Malaniyan gadhwa laya ayin karson
Tarah Tarah ke phool lagaye
Kwaza Nizamuddin ke darawaze pe
The procession then moved to other parts of the dargah complex. Overall it was an interesting experience but would have been much better if I had accompanied somebody who knew what to expect. It will also be good if you can find a place higher up around the dargah to avoid all the media people and professional photographers and videographers who were a menace to say the least.
devayani tirthali 