Musings

येळवस

Vela Amavasya (वेळा अमावस्या or येळवस) is a major socio-religious event in Vidarbh, Marathwada region. This was my second time in Harali around this time. The excitement was palpable the whole week. The Anandshala meetings leading to it were planned keeping the event in mind. The Saturday before Vela Amavasya, the weekly meeting was wrapped up in time to visit the weekly bazar at Jalakot. In addition to the regular fare, the market was brimming with produce needed to cook the special dishes for the day.

Vel amavasya is celebrated on the no moon day in the month of Margashirsh. A hut made of dried remnants of the crop is erected in the farm. Stones or mud roundels symbolising 5 pandavs and Draupadi are placed in it.

Naivedya is very specific: बाजरीचे उंडे steamed balls of millet flour, भज्जी mixed leafy veggies stew (?), गव्हाची खीर wheat pudding, दाण्याची पोळी flatbread stuffed with peanuts and jaggery. And most important आम्बिल, a refreshing drink of millet flour soaked in buttermilk, stored in an earthern pot.

At Harali the pooja was performed by various staff members and guests by offering flowers and lighting one of the wheat flour lamps. The pooja is to ask for blessings and thanksgiving for a bountiful future harvest. As one of the team had started a new venture to lease farm equipment, the crowd suggested they ask for blessing for that as well. As various researchers stepped forward there was further banter about blessings for various research projects. Overall everybody was in a jovial upbeat mood. The holy water was sprinkled around the hut and all over to bless the farm and the people.

The pooja at the main location was done. Got some of the Prasad to mix it with the food being cooked in the communal kitchen. Gauri offered Prasad to the old gentleman, he received it in his cupped hands kept on his back. As he explained, ‘a blessing like that should take a bit of effort’. There are three more places the pooja is traditionally performed at JP Harali. One at the well, another in the mango orchard. Places that were once owned by other villagers. The traditional places of importance need to be honoured.

Throughout the week I received invitations from various team members to visit their farm for the special meal. I was able to manage a visit to Santosh dada’s place and had to be satisfied just to see photos sent by others. Next time need to plan in advance to spend the day visiting more people.

Dilli Diary

Chance Finds: जाते थे जापान पहुंच गये चीन

The Saturday outing to IARI Pusa campus yesterday turned out to be a bust. The idea was to visit their biomass utilisation unit to get some vermicompost, leaf-compost, and whatever else they could offer. Turns out the campus staff recently negotiated a 5 day week that was put in practice today. facepalm
That meant the entire afternoon/evening plans just suddenly evaporated. No compost, no seeds, no visit to their fresh produce store, no wandering in the campus enjoying the greenery.

Decided to salvage the day by visiting barafkhana area for seedlings. The 7 kms took more than 2-3 hrs due to a traffic jam. It became so ridiculous at a point that, for the sake of our sanity, we decided to stop at this quirky cafe set up in a double decker bus.

By the time we got to barafkhana, hurriedly bought last remnants of the seedlings before everything closed, and started back the journey home, it was sundown. On the way back we hit traffic again. Of course… what were we thinking. This time the shops in front of a Kalibadi caught our attention. We had no idea where we were. Had never been to this temple, so decided to check it out and may be make a meal out of the stop.

The temple and the huge pandal in front of it was bustling with festive energy. The Durga idols were closed to viewing with a curtain. Everybody was waiting expectantly. The main temple has a beautiful idol of Kali. A side shrine housed a shivlinga with the garbhagriha decorated with 12 Jyotirlingas. As I was exploring the surroundings, I heard the sound of dhak coming from the back of the temple. Some ritual was underway. I could see at least 6 drummers congregated outside a small enclosure with their dhaks decorated with red panache. The electrified energy was visible as they moved fluidly with the drumbeats even in that cramped space.

The party then moved to the pandal and set up in front of the Durga idols. The curtain was removed and the priests started what looked like rituals for invoking, welcoming the Durga and the family for the festivities. Each idol – Durga, Laksmhi & Saraswati, and Kartikeya & Ganesh – were offered flowers, tilak, fruits, and aarati. Every offering to each idol was accompanied by a short drumroll. This went on slowly and methodically for a while. I wish I had somebody to explain what was going on.

After all the family members were invited, a box of ornaments were brought in. Till now I had not realised that Durga as well as the others did not have आयुध in their hands. One item at a time patiently placed. Veena वीणा for Saraswati, mace गदा for Ganesh, a bow धनुष्य for Kartikeya, खड्ग/वज्र for the Mahishaura. With the spear भाला pointed at the Mahishasur placed with utmost care the picture was complete. I realised now that it was Shashthi, the first day of the Durgapuja festivities. Something I had not experienced the last time I attended it before the pandemic.

The process and the end result was mesmerising. The Dhaks were now in motion again. This time with more space, the drummers moving as a group, dancing facing inwards building on each others’ energy, plumes on the dhaks bobbing up and down rhythmically. Reminded me of JP Dhol pathak in Ganesh Visarjan procession.

When we were new to Delhi, I wandered about aimlessly, and got to know the city through such serendipitous finds. Covid shifted the way I approach the city, the spontainity is lost. This festive season, a chain of events, otherwise frustrating, helped me get back to that mood.

PS: Some other glimpses

Musings

Burning away the pain

After a long time I found myself at a Holi celebration in Maharashtra. At Harali, it is a grand affair.

A big pyre made with firewood and dried coconut branches was ready. It was lit after performing a Puja. After a minute or so the dry coconut branches ignited sending spectacular sparks in the night sky. Boys ran around the fire screaming traditional couplets in a call and response format, using pent up energy and venting their frustration.

The Anandshala students staying at Harali, on a piece of paper wrote down feelings, memories, habits or anything they wanted to discard, things that did not serve them anymore. These were attached to the pyre before the ritual. The girls fixatadely looked at the pyre and saw the discards burn away.

I wonder what they wrote. Whatever it was, I hope it was a cathartic experience.

Dilli Diary

Basant at Nizamuddin

We had visited the dargah once during a heritage walk of the Nizamuddin Basti organized by the group Sair e Nizamuddin. I had heard about the Basant Panchami celebrations at that time. I finally made it yesterday to see what it was all about.

The story goes like this: Hazrat Nizamuddin was sad after he lost his nephew, who was like a son to him. One day Khusro saw some women decked up in yellow saris, holding mustard flowers, and singing songs. He asked them where they were going. They were going to the temple for Basant Panchami day. He asked if it will make their god happy. They said yes. This gave him an idea. Khusro, decked up in yellow sari and mustard flowers went to see Hazrat Nizamuddin and sang Basant songs to him. This brought a smile on the auliya’s face. Since then Basant is celebrated at the dargah with Khusro’s songs. You can read more about the story and history of Basant at Nizamuddin in this article on Scroll from 2016.

I had not seen this article or any other information about the schedule anywhere except a guided tour that was supposed to be there at 3. So I decided that must be the key time. I promptly reached at 3pm, picked up a place at the back of the seating area in front of the Dargah and waited for what seemed like forever. It was sunny and the dargah looked beautiful under the blue sky. Some people had tied yellow scarfs on their forehead. Some more were brought in. I got fidgety and decided to explore the complex a bit more. A lady beautifully dressed in yellow from head to toe was hurrying around. People were milling about. It was like an Indian wedding celebration. Many people doing many things around me but I didn’t know what actually was going on. Although, I must admit, people watching was the best. Everybody was decked up and excited. People were posing for selfies everywhere. Starting conversations with random strangers.

I got up from my seat when I could hear singing coming from the back entrance. People wearing yellow and holding Sarson ke phool were singing the famous songs – Sakal ban phool rahi sarson, Aaj basant manale suhagan, followed by one more that I hadn’t heard before. They entered the courtyard and sang the same songs again. Then everybody dispersed. A wide area was cleared off in front of the dargah. The kids holding Sarson ke phool, sat down at the back. It was time for evening prayers and everybody dispersed.

After the evening prayers, the groups of singers started again from the previous point in the courtyard behind the dargah. After singing for some time, they walked in procession the dargah at the place cleared out. It was a riot of yellow as the singing progressed and people threw marigold petals in the air.

Sakal ban phool rahi sarson
Umbva boray, tesu phulay
Koyal bolay daar daar
Aur gori karat singaar
Malaniyan gadhwa laya ayin karson
Tarah Tarah ke phool lagaye
Kwaza Nizamuddin ke darawaze pe

The procession then moved to other parts of the dargah complex. Overall it was an interesting experience but would have been much better if I had accompanied somebody who knew what to expect. It will also be good if you can find a place higher up around the dargah to avoid all the media people and professional photographers and videographers who were a menace to say the least.

Dilli Diary

Ganesh Festival in Delhi

Last year I was surprised to see so many Ganesh pandals around our house. Pune. Mumbai, and Maharashtra are know for its Ganesh festival celebration. However, public celebrations or Ganesh Puja is not a norm. Historically, it was a home afair, till B G Tilak as a public celebration as a way to congregate during British rule. In Delhi, various Marathi groups have Ganesh Pandals but the one in Malikpur gaon close to our house was a surprise.

This year, when I was wandering in Model Town I saw this hoarding declaring the first year of the …. Ganesh Mandal. So this is how it starts. People look at all the fun and celebrations and decide they want a piece of it too. Just like we have Navaratra Pendals in Pune now. Indians love festivities, public celebrations, and unfortunately loud music to go with it.

Bir bazar was ready with Ganesh idols, thursday before the big day (September 2). I am not too excited about the idols though. They have too much glitter for my taste. Parag was especially impressed by the black idol. It was in stark contrast with all the gold and mirror laden Ganeshas around it.

Yesterday, wandering in Karol Baug of all places, we were pleasantly surprised to see two shops selling Ganesh idols and quite a crowd around it, finalizing the idol to take home and all the trappings to go with it.

May be next time we will partake in the fun more consciously than just bumping into Punekar’s favourite god.

Musings

टाळ मृदंगाच्या घोषात

टाळ मृदंगाच्या घोषात
Kushivarta bai and Padmabai from Aurangabad district have joined the vari for the first time. They travelled by road to Alandi and then started their journey on foot. They were a bit amused but more skeptical of my interest in their journey and unsure of how much to divulge. As soon as the familiar rhythms of टाळ and मृदंग started they came alive.

Today is the day the पालख्या (Palkhya) stay in Pune, to start fresh tomorrow at day break. So many of the दिंड्या (groups/bands of pilgrims) are staying around my mother’s house. A couple in the school building, a few in the warehouses made available for them for the night. Early in the morning, one of the groups in the school walked towards the Ganesh temple singing bhajans to the rhythm of टाळ Taal and मृदंग Mrudunga. It is such a soothing sound. Listening to it after so many years brought tears to my eyes.

Later in the afternoon they gathered around the Datta temple, probably on the invitation of one of the shopkeepers behind the temple.

Another bhajan. This time men take the lead.

Musings

People: Vaarkari

Last two three days everybody has been talking about Palakhi (palanquins of saints) going through Pune but I had completely forgotten that today, as I walked towards Lakshmi road. I have been in the city during this time after 15 years or so. I stopped in my tracks to look closely at a beautiful nosering one of the vaarkari (pilgrims walking to Pandharpur) women was wearing. A group of them was sitting around chit-chatting after a day long walk. Some people sitting in the truck that travelled with their belongings, some sitting on the road with no care in the world.

Meerabai

I asked if I could take a close up of her face, and another woman in the group enthusiastically gave permission. Meerabai was confused but agreed at the end, rearranged her Padar on her head and was ready for the photo op.

I sat down for a bit to take a group photo and exchange a few words. The group was from Beed. They were planning to walk all the way to Pandharpur. The whole endeavour from home and back was going to take a month. Meerabai talked about how her feet hurt now that she was half way in the journey. Her Tulshivrundavan (Holy basil plant in a decorative pot) was safely kept inside the tempo, and she was too tired to take it out for a photo op. I wasn’t looking for the typical Vari photos anyways, so I just sat down for a bit.

The other two ladies Anasuya and Godabai were enthusiastic about their ‘Ekla’ (solo) photo as well. Then the oldest of the bunch, Sudhamati, insisted that she wanted to see all the photos. The phone made a round. Everybody happy with the outcome. Grandma especially liked Meerabai’s closeup. We sat for a few more moments chit-chatting and it was time for me to be on my way.
I wish I had more time to just sit around talk about life, the motivation to travel for days on foot away from their families, experiences on the way, and may be sit and sing a bhajan or two.

Musings

Lakshmi Jatra

The preparations started with my Mama posting photos from the previous fair held 19 years ago and another one before that when I was in school. Vetting apetite of the people who had planned to visit and coxing others who were still on the fence. As the date drew closer, more stories were shared, plans were made. The 10 day fair was an opportunity to reconnect with my extended family, after a long absence of 12 years on my part. So I decided to stay for the entire duration, making sure I miss nobody who would visit even for a short duration.

The main doorI arrived the night before the beginning of the fair to see the procession and the first day festivities. The taxi left me half way in the bazar as the roads were blocked. The enthusiasm was overflowing, and it seemed like the entire town was in the street. I walked down the familiar road of our childhood. The Lakshmi temple, the cold-drink place where my mama once treated me with ginger soda, the Vithoba temple -our summer vacation stomping ground, surprised at the changed facades of the houses we knew so well, and then the comforting first glimpse of my grandparent’s front door and the house, unchanged. Eager hugs as I enter the house, giving each other a loving once over, barrage of questions, comments, offers of food, tea. A welcome assault on all senses after a long time away.

Everyday, new people arrive, and the story repeats. The minute you entere the main door, you are greeted with familiar aromas wafting out of the kitchen. As you make a beeline for the kitchen to investigate, you are interrupted by a story telling session going on in the outer room or a loud explosion of laughter in the inner room. The stories and jokes repeated over and over till every new entrant is caught up. Every rendition expressed with equal enthusiasm, and receives the same explosive laughter everytime.

Every newcomer makes a beeline for the Lakshmi ensconed in her temporary house. In the evening there is the fair to explore with cousins, their spouses I am meeting for the first time, nieces, and nephews. A walk around the town taking in our old childhood haunts while Mama tells stories about their childhood. My mother’s primary school, a temple deep inside a private estate. The walk ending at a tea stall to enjoy piping hot tea and some more stories. An evening walk with my parents and my aunts to see the new piers at the river. Another round of stories.

A trip to the market to get some more vegetables as mami plans khatkhata for the next meal. Khatkhata, a stew made of multiple vegetables is much more than just a meal. The preparations engages everybody. There is a rhythmic co-existance as each mavashi, mami, cousin picks up a vegetable to clean, cut and add to the pile. Peppered of cousre with some more stories.

The hugs, the laughter, the walks, the memories, the food making me whole after a long time of being without.

Musings

People at the Jatra

Kaasar from Nandgad and her customer Lakshmibai

Lakshmibai was too shy so I didn’t push. I wish I had done a proper photo session with her. She looked positively radiant with the lugada, khanacha blouse, and hirva chuda (green bangles)

Ajoba resting for a while on the temple steps.

Pathan from Belgaum. Colorful display of the churmure and farsan, fried bobbins, Khaja and all the childhood snacks/treats pulled me to this stall. He got emotional when I asked how he was and how was the business. The entire week he was standing there and nobody had bothered he said. He was pleased and proud to pose for the camera.

Dilli Diary

Road Trip in a TukTuk

Last time I was at Barafkhana for some gardening supplies, the vendor was surprised that I took the metro with a change at Kashmere Gate. According to her, it was like going out of the way to the city center to get back up to North Delhi. On my way back, she suggested, I take a cycle rikshaw to Ghantaghar and get another home from there. This prompted me to check the map when I realized that it was a straight drive down from our current residence.

Yesterday I finally found time to try the route on my way to the garden stores. It was quite easy and everybody was supremely helpful. The first TukTuk dropped me at the Gurudwara for Rs 10 and the driver pointed to the exact spot where I had the best chance of getting the next one for Rs 10. This one passed through neighbourhoods I would have not ventured through otherwise. We crossed a couple of roadside potters and an old gateway that supported three lanes of traffic through its three arches. I decided to come back to explore it later.

The biggest surprise however was the Ghantaghar Chawk itself. The TukTuk dropped me into a bustling bazar full of roadside vendors hawking colorful wares lined up in front of traditional Mithaiwalas (sweetmeat shops), dairy product shops, grocers, plasticware shops, and pickle shops. A few conversations with vendors and shoppers confirmed that it was more than busy that day because of KaravaChauth, a festival celebrated in West and North India. Women fast on the day for their husband’s long life and celebrate at night after looking at the crescent moon. I obviously decided to break my roadtrip and explore this fascinating place before I continued on to the garden stores. Here are some snapshots:

Baskets of Mathri at a Rajasthani Mithaiwala.
20181023_155913.jpgA woman getting one prepared for her daughter’s first KarvaChauth gave me a low down on other things that will go with it as a gift inclusing diamand jewelery for daughter, gold something for the son-in-law etc with a price tag of 1 lakh. The Mathris seemed like the cheapest but traditionally most important part of the gift. I was told a Sargi or a food and puja item basket which includes mathari is sent by the mother-in-law to the daughter-in-law. Not sure if this was the same.

Street vendors selling Puja items: Terracota pots painted with traditional motif and similar pot shapes made of sugar. Reminded me of Gudhi Padva, the Marathi new year, when we use garlands made of sugar.

Other Puja items and Henna cones:

Women dress up for the occassion with Henna on their hands, and Zari decorated saris or lehengas, at least in Bollywood movies which is the sole source of my knowlege for this occassion. Newspapers for a couple of weeks have been full of advertisements for specials on women’s spa services, makeup and garments.
Accessories and cosmetics for women: Bangles, wedding necklace, and makeup items.