Musings

The Colonial Legacy

Nainital was in news end of April due to forest fires that came too close to the residences and the army campus. I explored more as we were planning to visit the Kumaon region in May. Realised that forest fires in the Garhwal and Kumaon region during this time are a regular occurance. It just ended up in news because it was out of control and threatened Nainital proper. The visual of the helicopter lifting water from Bhimtal to dump it on the forest fire was newsworthy.

Among a variety of reasons, some pointed the finger at miscreants, cattle grazers who set fire to prompt new grass, campers and tourists who accidently set fire; some talked about the weather this year – it has been a dry winter. No snow, no spring rains. Everything is dry. There was also a mention of pakistani elements sabotaging. Of course somebody has to bring up our neighbour. One thing was missing though, the fodder provided by the Chir trees and the history of it.

Chir or Pine, the straight tall trees, that create the beautiful picure perfect silhoute of the moutains are highly flamable. Their needles cathch fire very quickly. Our taxi driver said, the wet/green leaves/needles are flammable, once they are dry, it can be ignited with just a stone falling on another stone. We saw a demonstration immediately after at a rest stop. A driver (obviously an outsider) threw a cigarette butt and walked ahead, unaware of the fire ignited behind him.

The mono-culture of Pine (Pinus roxburghii) is a colonial legacy. It was grown for its straight wood and the resin. Kathgodam, the last train station, entry to the Kumaon region gets its name from this history. It was a depot that transported Pine from the hills to the seaport of Calcutta. When we were in the Garhwal region in the Fall, our treck guide had talked extensively about the nuisance that is the Pine tree. The tree does not allow any other tree to grow around it. It has shallow roots leading to soil erosion, it dries up land and makes it barren. The needles are flammable, cover the ground and makes it acidic so that nothing else grows on it. Rhododendron and the Banj Oak are two of the species that can push back. The Banj is a multiuse tree of the region. Offers shade, fodder for domestic animals, the leaf litter makes the land fertile, the cones are edible, branches are used as cooking fuel. However, its wood is not useful for furniture. It is also a slow growing tree. Thus over the years it has been replaced with the Pine.

This 200 year old story still haunts the hills every summer with forest fires. It has also made the soil increasingly dry and infertile, and the hill slopes barren.

Relevant Reading:

Dilli Diary

Road Trip in a TukTuk

Last time I was at Barafkhana for some gardening supplies, the vendor was surprised that I took the metro with a change at Kashmere Gate. According to her, it was like going out of the way to the city center to get back up to North Delhi. On my way back, she suggested, I take a cycle rikshaw to Ghantaghar and get another home from there. This prompted me to check the map when I realized that it was a straight drive down from our current residence.

Yesterday I finally found time to try the route on my way to the garden stores. It was quite easy and everybody was supremely helpful. The first TukTuk dropped me at the Gurudwara for Rs 10 and the driver pointed to the exact spot where I had the best chance of getting the next one for Rs 10. This one passed through neighbourhoods I would have not ventured through otherwise. We crossed a couple of roadside potters and an old gateway that supported three lanes of traffic through its three arches. I decided to come back to explore it later.

The biggest surprise however was the Ghantaghar Chawk itself. The TukTuk dropped me into a bustling bazar full of roadside vendors hawking colorful wares lined up in front of traditional Mithaiwalas (sweetmeat shops), dairy product shops, grocers, plasticware shops, and pickle shops. A few conversations with vendors and shoppers confirmed that it was more than busy that day because of KaravaChauth, a festival celebrated in West and North India. Women fast on the day for their husband’s long life and celebrate at night after looking at the crescent moon. I obviously decided to break my roadtrip and explore this fascinating place before I continued on to the garden stores. Here are some snapshots:

Baskets of Mathri at a Rajasthani Mithaiwala.
20181023_155913.jpgA woman getting one prepared for her daughter’s first KarvaChauth gave me a low down on other things that will go with it as a gift inclusing diamand jewelery for daughter, gold something for the son-in-law etc with a price tag of 1 lakh. The Mathris seemed like the cheapest but traditionally most important part of the gift. I was told a Sargi or a food and puja item basket which includes mathari is sent by the mother-in-law to the daughter-in-law. Not sure if this was the same.

Street vendors selling Puja items: Terracota pots painted with traditional motif and similar pot shapes made of sugar. Reminded me of Gudhi Padva, the Marathi new year, when we use garlands made of sugar.

Other Puja items and Henna cones:

Women dress up for the occassion with Henna on their hands, and Zari decorated saris or lehengas, at least in Bollywood movies which is the sole source of my knowlege for this occassion. Newspapers for a couple of weeks have been full of advertisements for specials on women’s spa services, makeup and garments.
Accessories and cosmetics for women: Bangles, wedding necklace, and makeup items.